VINTAGE IN VOGUE (Recycled Rings)

At some point in the pea soup between falling in love and building a life and a family together, it is customary to ‘get engaged’. Engagement is traditionally ratified by the presentation and acceptance of a ring. This ritual ring giving is commonly believed to have roots in both unity symbolism and bride price.

However, today the questions of: “What cut will she like?”; “Baguettes or no?”; and “What size is her finger?” are complicated by ethical questions that, as conscious consumers, we must ask- Questions about mining practices and free trade, about environmental and community impacts, and about workers’ rights.

One answer to reducing our negative impact on the above is to make a greater impact as consumers by buying or passing down vintage jewelry, so as not to contribute to the market for new materials. As an added perk, vintage engagement rings are often less expensive without compromising craftsmanship!

Antique, heirloom, estate?
Antique explicitly refers to an engagement ring that is over fifty years old. An heirloom ring has been passed down from generation to generation. An estate ring is specifically less than fifty years old, and may even refer to a quite recent ring, as long as it was previously purchased for use. Beware though, when using the word vintage. While the word is used to describe “old” rings, it can also sometimes be a descriptor for a line of rings crafted in an “old style”: vintage style or antique style rings.



PERIOD FASHION:

• Victorian Antique Engagement Rings (1835-1900) The Industrial Revolution brought the discovery of diamond mines in South Africa, as well as domestic wealth with which to buy baubles. Victorian settings typically feature rows of diamonds, cut with an extra facet (“mine cut”) on the bottom of each stone. Set in yellow or rose gold, Victorian rings range from very simple to more complicated designs. The classic six-prong diamond solitaire was introduced by Tiffany’s in 1886.
  

• Edwardian Engagement Rings (1900-1920) With the invention of the oxyacetylene torch, platinum became the most popular metal for engagement rings. Because they now the tools to imitate high fashion, jewelers began crafting with filigree and lace-like designs. They added milgraining and filigree details to the settings.
  
  

• Art DecoEngagement Rings (1920-1930) The 20s were dynamic, filled with jazz and exploration. With a more streamlined geometric look, Art Deco rings embody the industrialization of American culture at the time. They also often reflect a more worldly sense of fashion, with nods to Asian, Egyptian, and Native American aesthetics. These rings often incorporate some more colorful stones, radiant sapphires, bright emeralds and fiery opals. Other Art Deco rings emulate the glittering streamline form of Art Deco architecture such as the Empire State Building and the Chrysler Building.
  
  
  TIPS
  
  
  · Craftsmanship! This is where you can get a lot of value by purchasing an authentic era ring. The semantics might get confusing if you are talking to jewelers that craft “Antique Style” rings, but you’ll spend a lot more for the same level of quality if you end up shopping for a new ring.
  
  · Diamonds are a pretty classic stone choice, but they are not the only cupcake on the menu! Be thoughtful about choosing softer stones such as emerald or opal, which can make your ring more fragile and less utilitarian.
  
  
  · Keep in mind that popular cuts and styles for modern rings won't necessarily be represented in older diamonds. While in modern diamonds, only brightest white passes mustard, but in eras past diamonds with tinges of rose, green or yellow were popular. Also, the methods for identifying internal flaws have advanced so that antique diamonds may not meet modern day standards.
  
  
  
  
  LOCAL RESOURCES:
  
  Lang Antiques
  323 Sutter Street, San Francisco, CA 94108
  415.982.2213
  http://www.langantiques.com/
  
• Tampico
  2147 Union Street, San Francisco, CA 94123
  415.563.3785
  http://www.antique-rings.biz/ Dianne's Old And New Estates
  2181 Union Street # A, San Francisco, CA 94123
  415.346.7525
  diannesestatejewelry.com

ALTERNATIVE WAYS TO GREEN YOUR RINGS:

1) If your great-grandmother’s ring is worn, outdated, or simply the wrong size, consider getting your heirloom diamond reset in a renewed metal band, derived from recycled jewelry or industrial products! When precious metals are repurposed and then re-refined, they can produce gold and platinum of equal quality to newly mined metals.

2) Conflict free diamond Jewelers such as Brilliant Earth in downtown San Francisco support the goals of the No Dirty Gold campaign, and are a great resource for more sustainable wedding jewelry.

As usual, reduce, re-use, and recycle!